Newsletter
The veterinarians and staff at Bellerose Veterinary Hospital are pleased to provide pet owners in the Queens and Long Island area with our online newsletter. This fun and fact-filled newsletter is updated on a regular basis.
Included in the newsletter are articles pertaining to pet care, information on our animal hospital, as well as news on the latest trends and discoveries in veterinary medicine.
Please enjoy the newsletter!
Current Newsletter Topics
Canine Distemper? Parvovirus? Lyme Disease? Which vaccines are truly needed by our pets and which ones can they do without? As pet owners increasingly use the Internet and other resources to learn more about the health of their pets, it is easy to get lost and confused by myths and misconceptions about vaccinating our pet friends. Veterinary scientists are helping to clear the confusion with new technology that can protect our pets without exposing them to potential adverse side effects. Watch this video to learn more.
Dental care is vital to your pet's health! If you've already established a dental care program for your pet, you're off to a great start. But if your pet hasn't received a dental exam from your veterinarian, it's time to get started. February is National Pet Dental Health Month, the perfect time to schedule a dental exam for your pet and develop a home care regimen for your best friend.
Why is dental care so important for your pet? Periodontal disease is the number one diagnosed problem in pets - by the age of two, more than 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats have periodontal disease in one form or another. The buildup of plaque and tartar on your pet's teeth leads to bacterial infections that can enter the bloodstream and infect other parts of your pet's body. Periodontal disease has been linked to heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, osteoporosis and other problems.

The good news is that periodontal disease is easily prevented. Routine dental cleanings and a home dental care regimen can eliminate the plaque and tartar that lead to gum disease and oral infections. During a dental cleaning, your veterinarian also performs a complete oral examination of your pet. This includes screening for oral cancer, broken teeth and cavities. Spotting these problems early on makes them easier to treat and improves your pet's overall oral health.
Your pet's dental cleaning is more involved than the same process you go through at the dentist's office. Anesthesia is required to keep your pet still and comfortable during the procedure. Because of this, your pet undergoes a thorough physical examination before each dental cleaning. Laboratory blood tests, as well as other diagnostic procedures are also used to screen for potential problems and risks before anesthesia is administered. Using these results, we develop a safe anesthetic protocol specifically for your pet.

During a dental cleaning, tartar is removed from your pet's teeth with a hand scaler. Next, a periodontal probe is used to check for pockets under the gumline - where periodontal disease and bad breath start. An ultrasonic scaler is used to clean above the gumline and a curette is used to clean and smooth the teeth under the gumline and in the crevices. Finally, the teeth are polished and an anti-bacterial solution is used to help delay future tartar build-up.
Dental care doesn't end in your veterinarian's office. Brushing your pet's teeth at home is an added level of protection against gum disease. In order to be most effective, brushing must be done at least three times a week; however, daily brushing is ideal. Brushing your pet's teeth can be supplemented with antiseptic rinses. Some pet foods and treats are also effective in preventing plaque and tartar buildup. However, there is no substitute for regular brushing and professional dental cleanings.
Schedule a dental examination and cleaning for your pet today. Your best friend will thank you!
Drawing upon an international database of some 16,000 dogs, researchers at the University of Pennsylvania have pinpointed what's believed to be the first solid predictor of future arthritis. The scientists have found that laxity in the hip joint—several millimeters' worth of excessive play between the ball of the femur and the hip socket—correlates strongly with the advent of hip arthritis later in a dog's life.
"The relationship between hip laxity and arthritis in dogs is akin to the relationship between high cholesterol and heart disease in humans," said lead author Gail K. Smith, professor of orthopedic surgery and chair of the Philadelphia Department of Clinical Studies at Penn's School of Veterinary Medicine. "Hip laxity is no guarantee of arthritis later in life, but it is a very solid risk factor."
The finding, reported in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, could lead to new ways of averting or minimizing the occurrence of canine arthritis, which afflicts an estimated 70 to 80 percent of dogs in certain breeds. Since a canine generation is just 30 to 36 months, Smith said selective breeding to avoid high-laxity individuals could slash the incidence of canine arthritis within 10 years.
Smith, who began collecting data on arthritis in dogs in 1983, says the physiological similarities between dogs and humans make it very likely that joint laxity could similarly signal the likelihood of arthritis in people, whose laxity could be remedied in humans with medications. There is currently no such risk factor used to predict the onset of arthritis among humans.
In dogs, several larger breeds are most prone to arthritis: golden retrievers, Labrador retrievers, German shepherds, Newfoundlands and St. Bernards. Conversely, certain breeds that have long been bred for speed or athletic prowess, such as performance borzois and racing greyhounds, almost never develop arthritis.

Golden Retriever
"This research gives dog breeders an additional tool they may use in their efforts to decrease the incidence of hip dysplasia," said Mary B. Mahaffey of the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine, who was not involved in the work. "The authors give good recommendations for breeders striving to decrease the incidence of hip dysplasia in their kennels, and should allow breeders to make reasonably good progress in reducing the incidence of hip dysplasia."
As in humans, canine arthritis becomes more symptomatic with age. More than half of 2-year-old golden retrievers show radiographic signs of degenerative joint disease, and more than 90 percent of susceptible dogs show signs by old age.
The current study grew out of Smith's development of a now-licensed system called the Penn Hip Improvement Program, or PennHIP. Some 1,400 veterinarians worldwide have been trained to use PennHIP to measure hip laxity among dogs; it's from these clinicians that Smith gathered data on the 15,742 dogs included in the JAVMA paper.

University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program
PennHIP positions dogs differently than traditional radiography of the hip, which images dogs with rear legs extended. With PennHIP, the veterinarian takes one image of a sedated dog's hip in the conventional position. Then, with the hips in a more neutral position, this image is supplemented with two others: one with the femoral head pushed in toward the hip socket and one with it pulled away from the socket. Comparing the latter images lets clinicians determine how many millimeters of play exist between femur and socket.
Source for this article: University of Pennsylvania, Office of University Communications
When it's time to give your dog a bath, you should be well prepared for the process. Not only is it important to have the know-how for bathing your pet, it is also important to be well organized.
Dogs are not similar to people and should only be bathed when they are dirty or when they need a flea or medicinal bath. Over-bathing removes the natural oils in their skin and fur, and can leave the skin dried out and flaky. Dry flaky skin very often results in scratching. Frequent bathing also reduces the coat's insulative and waterproofing capacities. However, certain dog breeds that are prone to skin conditions benefit from regular bathing. Cocker spaniels, for example, benefit when bathed every 6-8 weeks.
When selecting a shampoo, it's best to use a good quality shampoo that is specifically formulated for dogs. Don't use a human shampoo. They are not formulated for a dog's skin or coat. A conditioner (also formulated for dogs) is a good idea, particularly if there are tangles and lots of knots.
To start, the best place to bathe your dog is in the bathtub or in a utility tub. If you plan to bathe your dog outdoors, make sure your hose has both hot and cold water. A cold bath is not only disagreeable, but can also cause rapid hypothermia. Bathing indoors is a challenge; as all escape routes need to be considered.

Bathe Your Dog in a Bathtub or Utility Tub
The following are some basic guidelines for bathing your dog:
Make sure that all your supplies are within reach before putting your pet into the tub. Dogs don't seem to remain in the tub very long when left alone. Your supplies should include shampoo, conditioner, scissors, several towels, cotton balls and a plastic container (for rinsing). If you are planning to clip the toenails, make sure that the nail clippers are also within reach.
Clipping a dog's toenails often causes some bleeding. If bleeding occurs, a dab of Stypic powder (or another veterinary recommended powder) on the affected nail usually does the trick. Sometimes, several applications of the powder are necessary. If you are hesitant to clip your dog's nails, have it done at your local veterinary hospital or pet grooming salon.
A rubber mat should be placed in the bottom of the tub so your dog's feet don't slide around, and so he or she will feel more secure and safe. Most dogs don't want to be there in the first place, so you need to make them feel as comfortable as possible.
Place one or several cotton balls in each of your dog's ears. Don't push the cotton too far down the ear canal; however, it does need to remain securely in place. The cotton helps keep water out of his or her ears. A drop of artificial tears (placed in the corner of each eye) prevents the shampoo from irritating the eyes.
Properly lift your dog in the tub, avoiding injury to both you and your dog. Place one arm in front of the dog's chest and one arm behind the rear legs, just under the tail. Make sure you bend your knees (not your back) when lifting, particularly if the dog is heavy. If your pet is too heavy to lift by yourself, always get help. Nothing hurts more than an injured back.
Turn the water on slowly and adjust the temperature. The water should be lukewarm. Thoroughly wet his or her coat down with the spray hose starting from the back end moving forward. Then, begin lathering your pet. Work the shampoo into a thick, rich lather. If you are using flea shampoo, some brands recommend leaving it on for several minutes. Read the directions on the container and follow them carefully or the results may not be achieved. Lather the main body, stomach, legs, feet, and tail.
Finally, pour a small amount of shampoo into your hands and gently lather the fur around the face and on the head. Be careful not to get the lather into your dog's eyes.
When rinsing, start with the head and work towards the rear. Cover your dog's eyes with your hand and gently rinse off the top of the head and around the eyes. Then, gently cover your dog's nose and rinse off the rest of the face and neck. Next, work your way down the body, making sure to rinse out all of the suds and shampoo.
If you are applying a conditioner, now is the time. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for applying the product. If a conditioner is applied, another rinse is probably necessary.
Remove the cotton balls from his or her ears and gently squeeze any excess water from the coat.

Rinse Your Dog From The Head To The Rear
The drying process is generally the part that dogs like best. Most dogs enjoy getting a vigorous rub down. To finish drying your pet, a hair dryer can be used. Never use a high heat setting and pay careful attention. Do not allow your dog to become overheated.
If you have questions about the type of shampoo, how often to bathe your pet, or whether or not to use a conditioner, don't hesitate to call your veterinarian.
Everyone knows how beneficial pets can be in our lives. But now, recent scientific evidence has actually proven what pet owners already knew. Heart failure patients who spent 12 minutes with a dog or cat had lower stress hormone levels, lower blood pressure levels, and a general brighter outlook about their recovery. Therapy dogs, and cats, have now started their rounds, under "doctor's orders". Watch this video to learn more.
Older cats have special health needs and may require more attention and care than younger kitties. The aging process varies between species - if you own a senior dog, your cat may not be considered a senior, even if they are the same age! You should consider your cat a senior around 10 years of age. As your cat ages, changes occur in his physical condition that warrant more frequent visits to the veterinarian. If medical problems are recognized and treated when they are first detected, the treatment may be easier for your cat and less costly for you. Twice-a-year wellness examinations are recommended in order to diagnose medical problems during the early stages.

A geriatric exam is more extensive than a simple check-up and includes a complete physical exam, oral and rectal examinations and a recording of body weight and body condition. The veterinarian will also examine your cat's ears, eyes and various internal organs. Some laboratory work may be done, including a complete blood count, urinalysis, fecal exam and perhaps endocrine blood tests and other complementary examinations. Establishing a base line is an added benefit and can ultimately help, should there be any changes, even small ones, to your cat's health.
As cats grow older, their organs may become less efficient and they may be less resistant to infections and other diseases. As a responsible cat owner, you want your cat to remain healthy and active for as long as possible. It is important to be aware of any condition that may warrant our attention.
General Tips for Your Aging Cat
Diet - There are several reasons why a special diet may be needed for an elderly cat. He or she may be less active than a younger kitty and, therefore, may require fewer calories. The digestive organs may become less efficient in digestion and absorption, and a highly digestible diet may be more appropriate. Phosphorus and protein content may need to be decreased if your cat has kidney problems. Under certain circumstances, the vitamin and mineral needs of an elderly cat may change as he or she ages. Some of the special senior feline diets have mineral and vitamin content carefully adjusted to help provide the appropriate balance for elderly pets, especially those with failing kidney or heart functions.
Joints - As your cat ages, joint pain and stiffness may develop. This may mean that your cat becomes less active and his or her energy level may decrease. Your cat may become tired more easily and want to nap more often. Muscle tone tends to reduce, which may further reduce your cat's ability to run, jump and climb. This decrease in muscle tone and exercise also contributes to the stiffening of joints.
Senses - Hearing, sight and smell can all become less acute with age and you may need to make allowances for these changes. Watch these changes. Unfortunately, hearing aids and contact lenses still have yet to be fit for cats! Be cognizant of indications of impaired sight, such as bumping into furniture, or loss of hearing, such as if your cat stops reacting to its name or familiar sounds. Eye infections, cataracts, decreased night vision, or even blindness is common; however, these can also be symptoms of a larger problem.
Dental - Older cats are more likely to develop tooth and gum conditions. If your cat has sore gums or loose teeth, he or she may be reluctant to eat, or it may cause food to drop out of his or her mouth. Gum disease not only leads to loss of teeth, but can also cause heart and kidney infections if bacteria enter the bloodstream through enflammed gums. Examine your cat's mouth regularly and ask us for advice if the teeth or gums do not look healthy.
Urinary - Urinary incontinence or inappropriate urination is common in an aging cat. Inappropriate urination may also be the result of a urinary tract disorder, kidney problem or symptomatic of a larger problem. Changes to your cat's litter or litter box location may also trigger urinary issues. Consult our veterinary staff if your cat suddenly becomes incontinent or begins to urinate more frequently.
Behavior - As your cat ages, his or her behavior may change significantly. You might interpret this as simple aging, but it actually might be due to a treatable geriatric disease like cognitive dysfunction. Some typical signs include confusion, disorientation, decreased activity, changes in the sleep/wake cycle, loss of litter box training, or signs which suggest a decrease in your cat's interest in, or ability to interact with, his or her environment or with you.

Kidneys - Excessive thirst and frequent or uncontrolled urination are often signs of kidney problems or diabetes. Since the kidneys process and eliminate waste products into the urine, it is important that these organs remain healthy. If your cat's kidneys are not functioning properly, your vet may recommend a diet specially designed for kidney problems. These diets contain a low phosphorus level, to slow down the progression of the disease, and a lower protein level to reduce the build up of harmful waste products in the blood.
Coat - As cats get older, their temperature sensitivity increases because their coats are often poor and not as resistant to temperature changes. Tolerance of cold temperatures and wet conditions decreases, and the need for a dry, draft-free, sleeping area is a priority. If your cat does go outside, do not leave him or her outside for long periods of time in cold or wet weather. In hot and humid weather, use air conditioning and/or fans to help keep your cat cool.
Grooming - Provide regular grooming. This helps to remove dead hair and prevent hair balls that may cause vomiting or intestinal impaction. Grooming also gives you a chance to inspect your cat for parasites, skin disorders and unusual lumps or lesions that may require our attention. Besides the health benefits, many older cats enjoy the extra physical contact!
Even if your cat seems perfectly healthy, regular geriatric check-ups are important to manage many of the changes associated with aging. Cats over seven years of age should have a veterinary examination twice a year. A complete geriatric health maintenance program can provide a means to target age-related health problems, institute preventive health care measures, and detect any disorders early enough to provide appropriate medical treatment. Cats can be the most rewarding when they reach middle or old age; they know you, have a special routine, and have spent years as a companion to you. Maintaining the health of your aging kitty is a part of your mutually beneficial relationship and can provide both of you with many more years of love and companionship.
We’ve identified seven general reasons for barking. Each generates a different kind of bark with a unique sound.
- Barking to induce play—Dogs will stop barking as the play proceeds. If you do not play with the dog, he (or she) will eventually give up and stop barking.
- Barking to discipline young—This bark generally does not persist, as one or two warnings usually stop younger animals in their tracks.
- Barking to warn of danger—This is a deep, repeated bark. The barking will generally persist until the source of danger is removed or until the dog is able to retreat to a position of safety.
- Barking to threaten intruders—To stop such a bark, you must either remove the intruder or remove the dog from the situation. Sometimes, stepping to the dog’s side and assuring it that all is well will cause it to stop barking.
- Curiosity barking—In general, this bark is displayed when there is some activity near a dog, but in such a place where the animal cannot have a good look. To stop the barking, all you have to do is let the dog see what it is curious about.
- Barking for companionship—This is an incessant, repetitive bark, accompanied by a relatively motionless tail and concentration toward the area most associated with the dog’s owners. The solution to this type of bark is to spend more time with the dog and to allow the dog access to the area where humansspend their time. This bark is often displayed by dogs that are ignored, tied out alone or locked up alone.
- Barking for reward—Dogs can be inadvertently trained to bark and will persist with remarkable persistence. Barking can become associated with almost any activity that leads to reward. For instance, a dog that barks at garbage trucks because they intrude within its territory will learn that persistent barking leads to the disappearance of the trucks. This rewards the barking behavior, and a cycle is begun that is difficult to break. To break the cycle, it is necessary to interrupt the natural system of reward.
